Paithani rubab! Do you know the 'Ha' history of Maharani Paithani of Sarees? Read detailed

 

Paithani is regaining its new glory. However, more efforts are required to speed it up and enhance the originality of pure silk and jar.

Asmita Ranjan Desai-Dhande
was circulating a post on WhatsApp a few days ago. It showed a cupboard in the shape of a question mark. There was also a comment below. "With so many cupboards full, this lady says, 'I don't have a sari to wear to the event.' There was another post, a husband-wife dialogue. Husband- Oh, I have brought a new sari for you.

Let's see .. Wife - (happily) Ayya really? It is very beautiful but I have a sari of this color and design .. where did you get it from? Husband: Brought by your own deceit. The clock is unbreakable. For women, sari is an intimate affair, while for men, it is a joke. No matter how many sarees are in the cupboard, the women's phrase is 'no saree'. (Photo Credits TOI / NBT)

History of Saree

The sari is a very traditional, distinctive type of clothing worn by Indian women. Although it is difficult to wear a sari, there is a lot of curiosity about it all over the world. When worn, a woman looks beautiful, attractive, different from everyone else. That garment is a sari. The word sari is derived from the Sanskrit word shati or shatika. Shatika is a long garment shaped like a square. The practice of wearing sari has been prevalent in India since time immemorial. Sari is one of the oldest garments in the world. Rectangular cloth of specific length, width, which women wrap around the waist. The length of a sari is about five to nine yards (approximately five and a half to eight meters). India has a tradition of wearing sari since time immemorial. The style of wearing sari in India and the types of sari can be seen from the ancient sculptures. The type and style of wearing a sari varies from state to state in India. Such as Rajasthan - construction, 

The uniqueness of Maharashtra

The method of wearing sari in Maharashtra is different. Similarly, the names of sarees are also different. Such as Lugdi, Chirdi, Patal, Pitambar, Shalu and Paithani. The Nauwari sari is very characteristic and elegant and the dress shows elegance and elegance. In the past, bodices were used, now blouses are in vogue. Generally, sari has been widely promoted in the 20th century. In the past, only the wedding dress was given to the bride as a gift. Sarees were worn with precious, rich, attractive colors and embroidery. The first to be honored is the Paithani saree, which has the traditional cultural heritage of Maharashtra. Paithani saree is called 'Mahavastra', 'Maharani of sarees'. Every woman wants to have a paithani sari in her collection.

History of Paithani

Paithani has a history of 2000 years. The name Paithani is derived from the historical city of Paithan situated on the banks of the river Godavari. In ancient times, Paithan was known by many names like Pratishthan, Patan, Pattun, Potan, Paithan. The city has cultural and religious significance. Paithan taluka of Aurangabad district has a glorious history. Paithan is known as the land of saints, scholars and scholars. It is mentioned in the historical 

text that the production of Paithani sari started during the Satvahana dynasty which was the capital of Pratishthan. Paithani sarees were made mainly for export from India and to add to the treasury. Indian weaving, textile texture, color scheme, embroidered durability, the way the saree is worn all attract foreign customers. Paithani has been in great demand abroad for a long time. Since then, textile exports from India have started in the international market. Gautamiputra Satkarni gave a new identity to the Paithani manufacturing industry during the Satvahana period. During this time the industry was at its peak of progress. Paithani garments were widely exported to Rome and Italy.

Craftsmen have to work hard to make a paithani. In the past, gold, silver and diamonds were in abundance in Paithan. This sari was made of handloom silk and gold and silver. In the past, paithani was mainly made in peacock color. Her veil was woven with gold threads. It takes 18 to 24 months to weave a Sahavari sari. Normally five hundred grams of silk thread and two hundred and fifty grams if required. The feature of paithani is that it is the same on both sides, padar and border. That is, the back and the front look the same. Over time, paithani began to be made in various colors like red, yellow, blue, green, purple, pink, etc.

Later, even during the Yadav dynasty, Paithani was in demand abroad. Paithani got royal patronage in the kingdom of Marathas and Peshwas. The women of the royal family preferred these sarees. She started getting Lokashraya later along with Rajashraya. Paithani, the splendor of Maharashtra's culture, began to flourish as a cave of good fortune. The bride was adorned with 'Paithani' and sent to her father-in-law. She was honored in worship. Vithu Mauli of Pandharpur and Ambabai of Kolhapur began to be adorned with special paithani garments. The weaver pours his soul into the craft while weaving the carvings of various flowers, bird figures from the thread of a single thread of jar and silk. Paithani is a beautiful blend of historical splendor and Indian art. Weavers have spent many generations of experience and labor in weaving paithani.

The downside to the business

As time went on, political transitions took place. There were foreign invasions. Nizamshahi came. The British came, the change of power brought down the Paithani business. The palace of Paithani gradually came to an end. Gold and silver prices rose after World War II. Handlooms were replaced by machines. As a result, the artisans of paithani production gradually became unemployed. The customer base also declined. As a result, the artisans of Paithani were displaced from the city of Paithan. Many weavers were forcibly relocated. Some were brought to Pune and some artisans were brought by the traders to Yeola village in Nashik district and the center of Paithani production was established from Paithan to Yeola. This business has been in existence in Yeola city for 300 to 350 years.

Strive for a golden day

After the independence of India and after the liberation struggle of Hyderabad, according to the economic policy of the government, Paithani production center was started at Paithan in 1968. Since 1974, the task of redeveloping the Paithani industry has been entrusted to the Maharashtra Small Industries Development Board. The board encouraged the weavers of both Paithan and Yeola to start making Paithani. But due to the age of machinery and huge cost of production, the price of woven paithani was higher. At such a time, the demand for paithani decreased and Banarasi Shalu became the preferred dress of the bride.

These brightly colored, heavy, machine sari captured the market. At the same time, the government has made a concerted effort to bring back the historical, traditional heritage of Paithani. The number of handlooms increased in Paithan in the 1980s. Started training classes from the training center. It increased the number of women trainees. The number of 15 to 20 handlooms was further increased to 300 to 400 in the 2010s. According to Paithan, the number of handlooms in Yeola was 250 to 300 in 1980. After the 2010s, it went to 1000 households. Although the origin of the financially subsidized Paithani is the city of Paithan, it seems to have changed in its original form after coming to Yeola. Although the number of handlooms has increased, the quality seems to have decreased. This difference is easily recognizable in my grandmother's, mother's paithani and my own paithani.

Both Yeola and Paithani are compared. Paithani's Paithani is the real identity of Paithani's market is more visible in Yeola than Paithani. When people come to Paithan for tourism, they buy Paithani.But they go to Yeola to tie the wedding bag and buy special paithani. Paithanla Paithani has many manufacturers. They also trade. Prabhakar Dalkari of Paithan and Shantilal Bhandage of Yeola have received the President's Award.

Yeola accounts for about 80% of the total Paithani production in Maharashtra. Therefore, it is understood that the real Paithani has come, said actor Adesh Bandekar in a program in Paithan. Paithani handlooms and sales outlets can be seen in Yeola. There is online shopping like musk paithani. Compared to that, Paithani's Paithani Saree was of excellent quality but Paithani could not be marketed. However, the existence of ancient Paithani in the city of Paithan can be seen from the name of the streets there. If galli, tar galli, rangar galli, hatai mohalla, pavta galli, sali wada etc. There are no signs of the ancient culture of Paithani in Yeola. 

The modern form of Paithani

At present, however, there is a picture of the harvest day coming to Paithani again. In it, actor Adesh Bandekar's Home Minister created a place of honor in the minds of women by creating competition among them. Paithani, which used to be only in the royal family, is now seen in the homes of common people. Synthetic yarns, synthetic yarns and machine-made products have reduced the cost of manufacturing paithani, so it is possible to sell paithani at an affordable price to the general consumer.

Paithani is also being made on handlooms. There are single pallu (double) double pallu. The whole sari is embroidered with embroidery, the main attraction being the padar and border. Bangadi is decorated with peacock, parrot, myna, ajanta lotus, kuari (mango shape), acroti. Currently there are different types of yarns like silk, brocade, tissue, cotton. Also Fusion variants like Peshwa Paithani, Khan Paithani, Irakal Paithani, Semi Paithani, Kadiyal Paithani (Karnataka Haircut), Dhupchaonv Paithani, Munia Paithani etc. are available at low prices. The paithani sari is a matter of pride not only for the bride but also for the entire bride and groom.

Paithani- youth fashion

Paithani said that the equation of sari has changed in modern times. Paithani has penetrated into many fields of fashion and its international leap has also risen. In 2000, British Airways decorated the exterior of the aircraft with a paitani pattern. Also, his tickets, pens, pencils, T-shirts and other items were emblazoned with Paithani. Nowadays, paithani is gaining popularity among the youth. 

Many items such as kurtis, jackets, dhotis, skirts, blouses, wallpapers, purses, trays, one-pieces, pylons, sky lanterns are being imprinted on many items. In this way, like the phoenix in the ashes, Paithani is regaining its splendor. However, more efforts are required to speed it up and enhance the originality of pure silk and jar.

Well known poet Shanta Shelke has described her grandmother's paithani in the poem 'Paithani'. Some of the lines .. 

Year after year passed

The world was practiced

New blank hard texture

Brought a softness

From time to time

Only life unfolded

Death came suddenly

My grandmother's gold became….

This is the Mahavastra Paithani that makes every woman's life golden, a source of good fortune.